Jr link to ordinary camber rod mod

Jr link to Regular camber rod.

This is a very popular mod that almost every one runs in this way, this is how I did mine.

I used Rear tie-rod as Front and order a pair of Lunsford 1 " 3mm threaded Ti-turnbuckles(part# 1061) for the rear.

when you order a turnbuckle set make sure order a package of rod ends (LOSA6017) too

then I took a medium size set screw from a LOSA6248 and thread locked to a LOSA6009 ball end to created a perfect length ball end / king pin for Type-R (ball ends such as LOSA6026 thread is too short)

note: This was a my very first log in July/2009 cause of the popularity of the mod, I decide to have a separate title to it.

Simple tip I got from the Groskamp video Part 4

RedRC.net post another video of Groskamp, all usual but I noticed at 2:30 mark he mount a "Flat head" screw" instead of a "Round head" to the Castor block, Less friction against a bushing, no chance of touching the Castor block allow me to tight that screw little more as I always wanted to!

Thanks Jilles your a real champ!

PS: this screw used to called as a King pin, seem like no one call it that way no more

Great time in Jackson, NJ

This is our last scheduled race for the year, but for remaining the year we going to have few more races

weather was perfect decent amount of drivers showed up

My car didn't run good, I did my best time in 1st qualifying then can't get any better, car start fish tailing from 2nd run and got worse through out the day, can't get right set up on my new Tekin SR ESC either

qual 8th, finished 5th in the main

Local racer Randy B, was using a new Ballistic 13.5 by Novak and he was flying! he TQed & won the Main race.

I didn't have my laptop with me cause of broken LCD, as soon as I get my lap top repaired I ll do more testing for my Tekin, but so far I like LRP TC better.

Heading to Jackson Tommorow, Sunday!

I been picking tires for tommmorow in last few minutes

should be fun tommorow all those guys who didnt do good in last Xray race will be there to prove they only had bad lucks and me myself going back there to prove last A-main qualifire was no fluke! and I can handle all those locals if we are all in a same shoes, last layout been there for a years, locals been practicing there for god know how many times!

I also dig out my trusty Canon G2 camera from my drawer, I will carry this compact thingie to every race I go for blogging, for big race I will still carry my DSLR for fast shutter speed.

well hopley do good tommorow or WTH as long as my car works good and I'm having fun I dont give a rats ass win or lose (that s part of my problem)

New toy!

After all this year I bought a pit bag that made for RC.

I been carrying my gears on un-RC driver looking bag lately but all this convenient feature of Magic bag is hard to resist.

even thought mine showing PROTEKRC, this is a Magic F8 bag only in different color and logos.

this bag was designed for 1/8th but IMO this bag belongs to us 1/10th scaler, I'm consider as light traveler by many but even my stuffs filled the bag 95%

awesome quality, extensible handle slide out from side is aluminium (steel?) material, coated with hard anodised, it slides out smooth like the Losi shocks!

can't wait to show up at track in Style!

Finished mounting Tekin RS

I tried to make neat wiring, Thought I did good then after pictures all I can say is "it looks better in real life" or are you saying "pictures tell the truth"?

I was going to submit on Bob stormer's thread on RCtech then I chickened out.

TEKIN RS/HOTWIRE for dummies

I found this wonderful text wrote by Mark Brown, before guessing what does "turbo", "timing boost" does, read this once it's in the MS Word format. (you can download word viewer from here)

Link to Mark's thread on RCtech

Shock ID & other simple tip.

" Middle of a race day, Your car is not ready for some stupid reason and you are in the middle of re building shocks, rush the process and boom! you are READY. went to the track only to find out car handle weired, went to marshalling with a long face, come back to the pit to find out you had your front shock on rear left to right right to left or one shock mounted inner hole of arm one on outer hole or one shock colar was way lower than the other side.

you get the picture DVD clear picture of it, coz You been there done that, so did I. "

to prevent this I marked my shock collars to see how many turn I went down or up and also marked down the location.

I was marking LF, RF, LR, RR on the inside of a wheels then buddy of mine Richard P told me just numbered it. 1=LF, 2=RF, 3=LR, 4=RR anything to make my life simple I go for it.

so I took that to my shocks and did same by filed down collars with a file like this

I also built a habit of screw down shock rod end (bottom) then shock cap(top) to idiot proof myself.(that also meks easier to screw, if you have spacers on that screw)

My philosophy for RC trends

The cycle of RC trends is very connected with given power source of that time

when a new motor come out or bigger battery debut (all meaning more power/increased of power) tires have to get softer or better to handle newer power source but it takes time to develop that, for that time being other method of traction gain technique have to be developed by racers, such as flex chassis.

then stickier tires debut. now faster car + sticker tires=understeer car, now a stiffer chassis and newer suspension set up is in order.

that's the cycle of RC I been observed, and that's how cycle has been spin in last 20 years on race track.

I think it's natural thing for all this hop up to available today, power source get better and we need to adjust our car according to that (specially tire didn't get any better than 2002, or maybe got worse)

for an example Losi had their flex chassis for the E8ight than last week they realised the softer "green" tires

so for JRX-S to handle all this newer power sources little bit of flex is in order until we see better tyres.

My new adventure for the best Type-R

This weekend, I m going back to Jackson for trying followings

• The TEKIN RS/HOT WIRE: I knida understand what are those "timing boost" "turbo boost" and rest of terms now, and getting my Notebook LCD repair by this weekend to try out all this timing boost technology!
• Front side brace: my car had too much initial steering with a 1pc spool and a Lucas upper deck mod, going to try little bit more rigid front end to get stable input.

• Jr link: that's right! I wanted to try Jr link for few reasons, Paul Leumix hand me his tires at the end of the Xray race and I found something diffrent, he didnt have inside seam line on his Jaco blue! we all know after 2-3 runs Jaco blue creating this ugly inside line on front tires, but not him! I tried few otherway to have even wear on this tyres but never a Jr-link yet, and rest all failed, the link also have stable cornering on high bite track anyway, I may hit 2birds with a stone! or pass 2 cars at one corner!

I told you the Machine is back on my work bench, stay tuned!

My review for flyingfoxRC hop ups for da type-R

You might said, Enough with a XXX-S!

Okay I got my real race car back on the table, the whole nine yard, state of the art Machine

Drum rolls please ~~~~~~ da JRX-S Type-R! (IMO that is)

I just realised I promised tory at Skyrocketracing.com for a review of Flyingfoxrc products.

so here it is

1: Top shaft

• first impression: Love how light it is, original shaft with a PRS gear adaptor is 11 grams (with a JRXS Pro center shaft LOSA3320) the new shaft is so light my dumb digital scale wont even detect at all! (I figure about half the weight? 5 grams?)
• Assembly: everything fits perfect, just make sure Thin spacer on right thick one on left (PIC#1)or you will rub the battery pack with your left pulley, Like I did for 1st Round of qualifying race

• Tips: use a longer pin on it if you can and also install a new belt pulleys if you have shaved down those pulleys to make room for a LIPO width, I had stock pin with shaved down pulley in first outing, after few minute I was driving 2WD type-R, car felt good with it!! too
• Performance: car run straight and more stable at high speed acceleration, it also help to pull harder.

note: I was kind of bummed out to see regular metal screws and washers include with the shaft, I replaced them with aluminum screws that came with a PRS gear adaptor (PIC#2)

2: 1PC front Spool tube

• First impression: AWESOME, great machined job, finish. also noticed how light this is, it felt like 1/3 of my original spool.
• assembly: it's kind of tighter than what I liked to be, tolerance of the products is so tight even a ball bearing having little hard time goes in to it (more story about that later), then I was mounting a Pulley on and found out round head screws that include is too long and it touches ball bearings, went to Tory to find out he only tight till screw touches the diff ring circle of the pulley (seePIC#3)

well, but I never mount my pulley on any of my car that way before so I took Tory's another Idea and use set of flat head screws that used to mount a center pulleys (see PIC#4) and I race that day.

I took it apart last week and found few surprise from the spool as numbered below.

1. Outdrive ball bearing got stuck in the pulley, it took me few hammering and 30minutes to get it out, I found there were bad scratches on the spool where ball bearing was seating at, I m not sure if this is because I used different rubber o ring to mount a spool to LOSA3316 Diff Acentric or not, but I found a O ring got stuck between Ball bearing And a spool that can caused unwanted side by side slop inside of the Acentric, maybe little bit smaller tube can pool proof the assembly process.PIC #5
   
   
2. I also found out my LCD won't go IN-N-OUT of diff outdrive with ease, there were 2 locations causing that, diff outdrive fits too tight in to the 1pc spool tube and "flat head screws I used on the pulley creating more pressure on to the diff out drive I had to filed down diff out drive with a flat file and a round file as PIC#6 shows.
   
   
   
   
3. Flat head screw also created ugly scars on the pulley as PIC#7 shows.
   
   
   • Problem solved: (of cos) I polished the tube with compound for a minute then I brought back round head screws with a aluminum O ring came with a one-way for the Type-R. as PIC#8 show.
     
   
   
   
   
   • Performance: AWESOME! more initial steering, faster acceleration! you gotta have both.

   Note: I used my chipped pulley from 360raceway race days for picture only purporse to show how much abuse front pulley takes from Carpet racing, I think it will be good idea to have that aluminum O ring to be a part of 1pc spool tube set.

   
   

   Finally my Spool and a center shaft is perfect.

Awesome race day at the beach

Went to Midland beach at Staten Island yesterday, even thought we had some clouds in the morning brave bunch of nuts gather together to put down awesome racing!

2 mains for Mini, 2 mains of 17.5 Touring, 1 Main of VTA and bunch of drifters.

weahter was so good through out the day, then right after all the race over we had flash shower for bout 5 minute under sunshine, then we had a HUGE rainbow on left side of the beach! what a beatiful site that was!!!

for myself I qualified 2nd and finished 2 nd in the A with my XXX-S,.

it is kinda hard to drive this car fast, since weight of mine is 1480Grams compared to 1420-1430 of all this new chassis also equipped with a timing boost ESC's,

I can see clearly newer cars moving quicker on every corner

TQ was my pal Alex V with a Hotbodies Cyclone, A main winner was also a Cyclone! (Jay F, from a long time R/C family)

many told me the Cyclone is da car to drive on asphalt and I guess they were right.

but I'm going to continue drive my XXX-S on the beach as long as I can stay on same lap with other machines.

XXX-S ready to go

2AM finally finished XXX-S for Racing, Hopely weather help us.

things I done for this race

• 41T pulleys all around, old 42 pulleys start slipping bad, I had few 41T pulley with a spool pad on it in my box, removed pad from one of pully to use for RR Diff, this change also lower internal Ratio to adapt a smaller pinion for easier motor removing.
• pad style spool on front, unlike sandpaper style (original XXX-S) this set up absorb bit of damage by skipping little under heavy load, good things for the outdirves.
• installed http://www.mcmaster.com/ thrust bearings on RR Diff.
• drive with LRP default dead band on ESC, I always moved Throttle trim forward until car barley start rolling, realised that takes lots of my brakes away, LRP dead band is more than what I like but I rather have powerful brakes.
• found out all those inner spacers I have to adjusting drrop in FR shocks taking oil volume away, I had 600 CST in last run, I might go 700-800 to make static feel same as before.

Racing this Sunday with my XXX-S

Going to Midland beach track at Staten Island this Sunday.

About a month ago I broke offset rear A-arm and had no spare, I went out to John's track with Regular arm as it show on left, car was pushing on 90deg square turns on power.

I bought a set of off set rear arms since then, also going to change pulleys (FR/RR) after 9 years of usage and going to try JRXS Type-R style front spool pad instead of sandpapers came with the XXX-S G+ cars.

I had sandpaper spool for a while with out any problem but lately its been slipping a bit, not sure if that is from age or not but I like the Idea of protecting tranny with that pad types of spool that can protect car's power tranny

I got a Tekin RS for my Type-R

woo hoo!

Trying to figure out how to use Turbo mode or things like that. it wont show on the menu, why did they hide them?

Rev1: found out turbo, timing advance setting only show when you click "sensored mode" doh! of cos that makes sense, sensorless motor can not gain RPM by ESC timing advance.

so they hide it for the reason.

ACTION PACKED WEEKEND @ Big apple!

I didn't realised I can race 3 days straight in this weekend until Brain . J PM me on RCtech,

he was asking me if I'm coming to racing Friday night at John's track.

ZOMG since my Racing days in Cali, this never happens again yet, especially not here in NYC!

so here is the detail on racing in this weekend

Event 1: FREE Race, Friday Aug/21/2009 7:30 PM at John's track at Nanuet, NY

Class: no set rule most runs Electric touring, 13.5 motor is perfect for the place

Setup: 5-5.5mm FR ride height with soft springs, kinda bumpy compare to commercial tracks, takeoff 27 or Sweep 40 should be good choice in tire rack. Bring a table, chair, extension cord (a usual outdoor racing gear)

Address: Track is at County Gas Service 83 West Nyack Road Nanuet, NY 10954 TEL (845) 623-3410

John's Track forum on RCtech

Event 2: European style racing, Saturday Aug/22/2009 5:00 PM at Jackson, NJ

Class: 13.5 Touring, newly designed layout will get you totally new racing experience

Setup: Very smooth surface, mucho grip if sprayed if not med bites, Sorex 36 Xenon 30, Sweep 40 is good. Table is there but kinda too high, bring usual for outdoor track.

Address: 2 Solar Avenue Jackson, NJ 08527

Jackson forum on RCtech

Event # 3: Race at Beach! Sunday Aug/23/2009 9AM at staten Island, NY

Class: 17.5 Touring, the town turned roller blade track in to RC track for us (XTRA XTRA muchos gracias para Ray & Pete /www.sirclegion.com!) Truly unique RC racing on the beach while bikinis cheering for you!

Setup: Some bumpy, little sand on few spots, long RR camber, maybe kick up on front little like splitting 2deg kick, 2 on Castor helped, med bites, Sorex 36, takeoff27 is good. bring usual for outdoor track.

Address: MIDLAND BEACH 900 FATHER CAPODANNO-CORNER OF HUNTER AVE. STATEN ISLAND, NY 10310

John Brown race forum on RCtech

2009 Xray challenge pictures

Click here for the album

no 3 fans allowed in ROAR event

"ROAR rule prohibit multi number fans" I been informed that by Mike haynes from Team Shcumacher last weekend, he said racers were DQ in last years nats.

also dual fans on my Losi kinda messed me up in one of my race in last week by mingled in gears, I ran Stock and super stock in the Xray race, I was switching motors of cos then I forgot to bolt back a fan on top of the endbell!

I think having just a single 25mm fan is kinda weak, I installed a 30mm ultra high RPM fan made by much-more, it provids much-more air with 1 single fan.

I bent a small size body clip to make L shape holder then fits Servo rubber mounting thingie in to it and mount with a shock O ring on the other side to make vibration free fan bracket.

Novak also make 40mm fan and I'm not sure if that will fit on the Type-R, if it does then that s even better.

Final set up sheet from 2009 Xray challenge

I did some changes during the races, first sheet is how I start practie with (before) and 2nd one show what I ended up with (after)

Car ran well but kinda too sensetive during 1-2 QUAL, then Paul Lemiux help me on the set up to lose some FR camber and Rear Droop, as well as trimming down Wing from ROAR line to EFRA line cut.

that took "riding on a edge" kinda feeling away as I wanted.

I'm going to try little bit longer Wheel base as mentioned by moving RR arms back by 0.03 inches at a time.

TYPO: I ran high diff height on both front and rear.

2009 Xray challenge at Jackson, NJ

What a race we had, from 8AM to 12:20AM!

My type-R ran awesome all day in 13.5 class made in to the A-main, there were 2 Losi Type-R in that main race me and Team Losi/Trinity Scooby horton

I met Tory from skyrocketracing.com to picked up flyingfoxrc products, a spool and a center shaft ran them all day with it, more about those shaft and a spool soon.

oh of cos there were Paul Lemiux in that A-main

here is a image of my Type-R and Paulie's Xray at the main race.

Note: I just found out Scooby Ran a Xray in this event, I was only Losi in the main event.

Lucas upper deck

a Jig saw ($29.95)

24PTI Jig saw blade ($9.95)

Dremel with a sanding tip ($70.00)

3M Masks($6.95)

Safety goggle.($7.95)

1 houur of min wage labor ($8.00? in NY?)

Lucas upper deck 11Grams (23Grams before)

$$$ Price less

Mas cojones? got balls?

Are we going to see more balls on the future?

well, Corally Phi 2009 version showing some balls.

Brushless motors gaining more horse power every day with a newer ESC, we might need more balls to handle all that power.

1420grams it is!

I made a pole thread on Rctech and seem like we all like to have rule change it to 1420, but there was some interesting opinion about what if Life become reality?

the Life is safer 6.6volt (mod friendly) pack that can charge with in 10 minute! (25C charge rate)

but I said "we will worry about when we see it."

we didn't worry about the Lipo when we used to drive the 1200SCR SANYO! boy we had fun in that time! I think that cells gave me most reliable punch ever!

I been up this late try to figured it out how to shave some weight with out losing perfect 50/50 FR RL I had.

Less wear, less collision damage & more fun! way to go ROAR!

Now lets do some works to save some weight!

should we?

NEW ROAR rule on weight of 1/10 Electric touring

August 7, 2009 - Electric On Road Paved Nationals Deviation, the Executive committee has approved the following rules deviation recommendation from the Electric On Road Class Committee.
Rule 8.10.5.1 minimum weight for T2 Touring Car has been deviated for the Electric On Road Paved Nationals, Hobby Town USA - Frederick, Oct. 1st - 4th.

The min T2 Touring Car weight to be used for this event will be 1420 grams / 50Oz /3.125LB


WOW! what a dramatic change this is, I want to get some ideas to save weight on my cars too!

Looking for a TEKIN RS ESC

Buddy of mine got a hotwire hooked up to my Laptop.

Pro model or not, I want to try it on my type-R as well, any one have a spare to sell?

Best version of 2008 IFMAR Electric 1/10 Touring 3rd Round from Bangkok, Thailand

This gotta be one of the best RC car race ever been filmed

We all saw this race on a hand held camera armature version but this one is professionally filmed with multi-cameras and you gotta love that british announcer!

Club race at Nanuet last night

Man! we had so much fun I ran my car to the bone!

nice flowing lay out in dry summer night, waht else can you ask for?

heading to John's track tonight with my XXX-S

Any one from NY's tristate are all invited!

The place is at County Gas Service, Inc.Map to the track
83 West Nyack Road
Nanuet, NY 10954
845-623-3410

Aluminium hex issue on JRXS type-R, XXX-S

I had a wheel binding on my car few times and find out wheel axle pin got caved in to the wheel hex so deep, the wheel hex was pressing hard againt "Inner race" of My balls!

I guess this could happend to any car that use a HEX adaptor to mount a wheel

I asked this to my extended brotherhood of RCtech.net and found out "using a Serrated nut and tight em in right torque" can prevent this problem.

I remember at 360raceway I had to keep tighten a rear right wheel all the time and I have to admit I did over tight that few time.

The M4 Serrated Nuts are available from HPI (# 87270, 87269, 87267) Tamiya (42143)

Race this Friday at John's Place in Nanuet, NY 7:30PM

Hello All

Look like a bad weather heading to us in this Saturday and Sunday.

But tomorrow, Friday should be nice all day and we gotta track to race!

Whos coming?

NOVICE class in ROAR NATS?

image of Ashley Villar is from http://www.skyrocketbatteries.com

For this hobby to survive, every track every event should have a mandatory NOVICE class.

ROAR should imply this rule to their Regional and the national event.

I know that sound way out of the line but look at it this way, I know few beginners who wont sign up at the Regional event even it happening under their nose cause they dont think they belong in any of the calasses, what if the Regional or National is happening at cross the town?

I'm saying this cause I saw something going wrong at my local track, we re having a xray challenge next week and they started with a 17.5 (design for novice IMO) and a 10.5 (for regulars), which I bielive standard classes for the x-ray event.


and they eliminated the 17.5 rookie class cause of poor turn out and 10.5 is gone too cause we all have a 13.5 but no 10.5 in the pit box then they put 1 big class of 13.5.

few days ago I noticed they put 17.5 back but no intention to be a novice class!


so the bottom line is

• they slow down main class 10.5 >>13.5
• then they axed the novice 17.5 class
• then recreated as 2ND TC class for those weak heart ppl with a more drivable 17.5motor!
• because 10.5 is way too fast for 140ft track!

so where is the class for our novice drivers?

ain't our novice not cool enough to run in these "Big championship" challenge with us?

or are we just too chicken to jamming in a 10.5 class ?

Follow up: at the xray challenge those 3 novice drivers on the picture didn't show up.

a pictures on the top of this post is "our" novice drivers at last trophy races, only 4 showed up but as you can see they are as serious as they can be on the drivers stand and looks so happy with those trophies, but we wont see them like that in this X-ray challenge.

we need to make more rooms for our novice drivers.

if a farmer don't seed in the spring farmer die in the winter

My set up for high traction track, Jackson, NJ

RC Racers are Handy men,

Us RC racers are known as a "excellent handy man"

I mean I fixed, washing machine, Laptop,cell phones, home phones, door, tiles, sink, toilet.... you know what I mean, I know you done it too, and our ladies love us for that!

and I was proud of it!

I know regular folks can't beat us RC racers when it comes to fix something.

but until today

I was web surfing today and I found this

and I said, dude ! I done that exact same !

then next picture came and I said...

dude, dude,....I mean...dude.....

I said

YOU WON!

XXX-s front end mod, In-board pin angle

There is about 3deg "in-board pin angle" on the front end of a XXX-S built in and that makes front end feel stiff cause that weird angles put pressure on hinge pins.

and I found following paragraphs from JRXS manual

" In-board Pin Angle: The in-board angle of the front hinge pins is adjustable in 1 degree increments from 0 to +2 degrees (angled out).

The car comes with a 0 degree front pivot block. Running more inboard front toe-out (+1 or +2 degrees) will provide a more responsive feel in the steering with less overall steering. Running less in-board toe (0 degree) will result in more stability with more overall steering."

Do I want more stablillity and more steering on my car?

Absolutely!

so i just put a rear suspension block(LOSA9848) on the front to square up the front end to make my car more 21st century car.

but that made my car's front end too narrow, I swapped wheel hex with pair of 0.255" (LOSA9688) to make 190mm front end.

front end feel lot more smoother, springier.

The Chicane Of Death!

Man! I hate that section at 360raceway, Alex V who was da Mouth at the 2008 Region 1 race enjoy saying that when others crashing in to it, seem like he's loving it!

but....

when he crashed in that section he saying things like these EVERY TIME..

that fXXXg section gotta go, who eva mXXXXxr put that in there I m gonna get him, cXXXer~

puhahahah

then I race at Jackson this summer just to find out there is a COD too! damn. (BTW Alex Suck at that track, maybe cause ....nah....can not be...but maybe cos of COD? hahahah)

for Jackson's COD I had to do some mod on my rear camber rod of the JRXS type-r and shock a standoff showing in post below.

when rear wheel get caught in that COD, a rear camber rod and a shock popped out to end my run

The screws you will need for a RR camber rod is a 1/8" button head (LOSA6212) to mount a rod and a 0.150" length flat head screw (LOSA6249) thread locked as showing above

Now you can peel that COD with out Fear....

Maybe not...

EZ Shock standoff removing

This mod makes shock re-location faster and also keep it from popping out when you crash sideway (like chicanes)

To get this done you will need to change stock 1/2inch (13mm) screw to 10mm length screw, narrow washer (LOSA6215) and thread locked a 1/8" button head screw (LOSA6212) on it.

Don't take shorts cut, follow the manual

My racing buddy "Young" put a shorter than the stock screw to mount that part and that part snapped in there, the part is machined aluminium, naturally that spot is paper thin, make sure you have long enough screw to strength the whole thing.

I also believe that part can flex on the Corners if you don't have a metal screw supporting it.

I think he did that to save some tool time but that actually cost him more time!