Going to race at Horsharm! with New wiring

I will finally get to run at the horsharm indoor carpet this Sunday, Ray Murray who organised this "slow-birds" was kind enough to have this race on Sunday for rest of us!

to get ready for this race I 'm doing few things.

I soldered input wires on back of a Tekin RS then soldered Deans in 90 degrees to get wiring more simple and also save some high gravity mounted weight, 2pc of 12 AWG in few inches should be meaningful weight on car's cornering weight.

but...I can't shrink wrap the wires, I quit smoking 2years ago and got rid of all the matches, lighters and candles!

I'm going to start off with Greg sharpe's set up for the track but that 2deg front anti dive and the 41t Fr pulley kinda got me worried. oh well!

Here I come another roller coaster race day! 1st time on the horsharm, totally different set up! 3 cups of coffee!!

CANT WAIT!

Going to RCM this Sunday

Finally I will get to race my be loving Type-R.

I will try a new Tekin software, ALL NEW Sweep tires, and all new carpet set up for my chassis.

Rear camber rod mod

I saw few ppl asking waht is most HD ball cup is cause their rear ball cups keep popping, cause rear camber rod is tilted backwards by default if you hit somethin by rear wheel ( ex: chicanes) ball cup does pop and your done for that heat!

and replacing this with other brand is hack! or even a old closed cap style Losi ball cups is not an good idea you will need to pop em out every time you working on it, that will makes your car sloppy and ugly!

That will makes your car look like this!!!

please ppl you can stop right there!!!

Don't do this to your beautiful type-R please.

I did manage prevent this by using a small flathead screws and also replace mounting round head screws with short one as I post it here but problem is I can't insert open-end wrench between the ball cups and rear shock tower.

and here is what I did.

I put a longer flat head screw from front and locked it with a lock nut from the back.

there you have it folks, please keep your type-R beautiful.

5th element ready

5th body mount and front bumper mod is done, I knew I can't wait a full day.

When I was kid I used to unwrapping plastic off a kit on the way home in the Bus! once I spilled few parts all over the moving Bus floor, hahah

going to race at windy Jackson 2weeks later and hope this help me a bit.

Bump steer on JRXS Type-R

I been running 2 gold washers under each Bellcranks since very beginning, to adjust the bump steer on the fly with following amount of washers under each ball stud of the steering hub.

• Low roll center: 2 washers
• Med roll center(low block with a 1 gold washer): 1 washer
• High roll center: no washer.

in my measurement on a hudy set up board with total of 4deg Castor, the machine is in neutral bump steer (0") with those set up.

the image showing Low roll center set up as I ran last week.

add: this mod also eliminated rubbing against upperdeck from ball end on the servo saver.

Flying Fox solid spool mod

I found half stripped out drives on my car since the race from yesterday

I thought it is better to have this spool made look like one way unit so we can use a one way out drive cups which gets to bolt down to mounted instead of snapped on to the tube but few people on RCtech pointed out one way out drive is not any better as shown below.

as many like to say " that's how it is" what can I do...

that's not my way! as usual I made my own to make the things better.

I drilled 4 holes on out drives with a 3/32" bit and screwed 5/40 set screws about 4mm long, this way it triple the contacting surface on the tube against plastic out drives.

One thing that concerned me is like what Mike L from MikeLdesign.com (also a type-R driver) is "there is no fuse, would you rather it be the plastic out drive or your LCD collar?' and I don't want that problem, only thing I can think of is run the front belt loose enough to be skiipped before LCD coupler get damaged.

follow up: since I did this mod, I didnt have any trouble on the spool or out drives yet, I ran 100 + packs with stock, SS, or 10.5 Mod with it, try it you will thanks me later.

Race Type-R at Staen Island this Sunday, also a bumper mod

I been running my xxx-s their last few times but decide to take the machine out there

Tired of bring Tonka to F1 racing sort of thing, had some hard times keeping up with all the modern sedans

also this is final race of the season for the track and want to do better or give 1005 of what I got for one last time at the beach, I will probably change a main chassis, a upper deck and all the wear and tear parts before this year carpet season so few more scuffs or some sand in tranny won't bother me so much.

oh almost forgot

a bumper mod? yeah all I did was drill a hole by lower front shock mounting screw and glue a coffee stir stick in to it, no more bumper removing for a shock maintenance. as you can see it on da image above.

Bumper brace mod

After few hits bottom2 screws to mount a bumper brace get stripped or get lose, then I put a longer screws hoping to reach deeper, but that never worked.

because the hole is not deep enough and I'm spinning a longer screw on same depth hole that is shorter than that screw, perhaps making it worse.

yes I drilled out with a 3/32 bit and tada~ little longer screws fits nice and tight.

I guess I can use small nuts in there but I think Losi only use a nut in middle for purpose to save the chassis.

when I get a new bumper brace I will just drilled it out from the beginning.

Better tweaked chassis tip

Instead of stick foam tapes under the upperdeck, just tape the battery plate on to the pack.

keeping the pack lowest and keep chassis from tweaking by a lipo pack

Don't you love it, when you hit 2 birds with one stone? or pass 1st AND 2nd car at same time to become a winner?

Jr link to ordinary camber rod mod

Jr link to Regular camber rod.

This is a very popular mod that almost every one runs in this way, this is how I did mine.

I used Rear tie-rod as Front and order a pair of Lunsford 1 " 3mm threaded Ti-turnbuckles(part# 1061) for the rear.

when you order a turnbuckle set make sure order a package of rod ends (LOSA6017) too

then I took a medium size set screw from a LOSA6248 and thread locked to a LOSA6009 ball end to created a perfect length ball end / king pin for Type-R (ball ends such as LOSA6026 thread is too short)

note: This was a my very first log in July/2009 cause of the popularity of the mod, I decide to have a separate title to it.

Shock ID & other simple tip.

" Middle of a race day, Your car is not ready for some stupid reason and you are in the middle of re building shocks, rush the process and boom! you are READY. went to the track only to find out car handle weired, went to marshalling with a long face, come back to the pit to find out you had your front shock on rear left to right right to left or one shock mounted inner hole of arm one on outer hole or one shock colar was way lower than the other side.

you get the picture DVD clear picture of it, coz You been there done that, so did I. "

to prevent this I marked my shock collars to see how many turn I went down or up and also marked down the location.

I was marking LF, RF, LR, RR on the inside of a wheels then buddy of mine Richard P told me just numbered it. 1=LF, 2=RF, 3=LR, 4=RR anything to make my life simple I go for it.

so I took that to my shocks and did same by filed down collars with a file like this

I also built a habit of screw down shock rod end (bottom) then shock cap(top) to idiot proof myself.(that also meks easier to screw, if you have spacers on that screw)

XXX-s front end mod, In-board pin angle

There is about 3deg "in-board pin angle" on the front end of a XXX-S built in and that makes front end feel stiff cause that weird angles put pressure on hinge pins.

and I found following paragraphs from JRXS manual

" In-board Pin Angle: The in-board angle of the front hinge pins is adjustable in 1 degree increments from 0 to +2 degrees (angled out).

The car comes with a 0 degree front pivot block. Running more inboard front toe-out (+1 or +2 degrees) will provide a more responsive feel in the steering with less overall steering. Running less in-board toe (0 degree) will result in more stability with more overall steering."

Do I want more stablillity and more steering on my car?

Absolutely!

so i just put a rear suspension block(LOSA9848) on the front to square up the front end to make my car more 21st century car.

but that made my car's front end too narrow, I swapped wheel hex with pair of 0.255" (LOSA9688) to make 190mm front end.

front end feel lot more smoother, springier.

The Chicane Of Death!

Man! I hate that section at 360raceway, Alex V who was da Mouth at the 2008 Region 1 race enjoy saying that when others crashing in to it, seem like he's loving it!

but....

when he crashed in that section he saying things like these EVERY TIME..

that fXXXg section gotta go, who eva mXXXXxr put that in there I m gonna get him, cXXXer~

puhahahah

then I race at Jackson this summer just to find out there is a COD too! damn. (BTW Alex Suck at that track, maybe cause ....nah....can not be...but maybe cos of COD? hahahah)

for Jackson's COD I had to do some mod on my rear camber rod of the JRXS type-r and shock a standoff showing in post below.

when rear wheel get caught in that COD, a rear camber rod and a shock popped out to end my run

The screws you will need for a RR camber rod is a 1/8" button head (LOSA6212) to mount a rod and a 0.150" length flat head screw (LOSA6249) thread locked as showing above

Now you can peel that COD with out Fear....

Maybe not...

EZ Shock standoff removing

This mod makes shock re-location faster and also keep it from popping out when you crash sideway (like chicanes)

To get this done you will need to change stock 1/2inch (13mm) screw to 10mm length screw, narrow washer (LOSA6215) and thread locked a 1/8" button head screw (LOSA6212) on it.

Don't take shorts cut, follow the manual

My racing buddy "Young" put a shorter than the stock screw to mount that part and that part snapped in there, the part is machined aluminium, naturally that spot is paper thin, make sure you have long enough screw to strength the whole thing.

I also believe that part can flex on the Corners if you don't have a metal screw supporting it.

I think he did that to save some tool time but that actually cost him more time!

RCD Boot / shrink wrap

IMO Biggest advantage for the RCD over a CVD is you can shrink wrap those pins instead of set screw, it holds grease better, also less dust inside

maintainanace also become easy cause with right flexible shrink you can just peel that thing off and reuse them, Green planet!

Once my CVD wear out on my B4 I'll switch to B44's RCD and do the same

Things that I should keep doing on my cars

Back in the RC10 days I used to polish every hinge pins, ball ends, changing shock oil almost every run! re-grease diff all the time but no more of that or cutting comm or etc..

I just brought out polishing wax and did Rear end of JRX-S

Hinge pins, rod ends, shock mounting ball ends...

man..what a difference, my car don't feel muggy no more, (is that a right expression?)

My car feel springy(?) when I compress the rear end

I ll do front end, hoply before the Xray race.

Ball end tool

with a Hex screw washer, 4-40 screw and a nut, I made this.

I can install or disassemble a ball without scratching it

Wing plate

Yokomo came out with this wing plate, I can't get em.

So I Made my own, faster the car travle more flex wing gets, that can cause unwanted turbulance.