XXX-s front end mod, In-board pin angle

There is about 3deg "in-board pin angle" on the front end of a XXX-S built in and that makes front end feel stiff cause that weird angles put pressure on hinge pins.

and I found following paragraphs from JRXS manual

" In-board Pin Angle: The in-board angle of the front hinge pins is adjustable in 1 degree increments from 0 to +2 degrees (angled out).

The car comes with a 0 degree front pivot block. Running more inboard front toe-out (+1 or +2 degrees) will provide a more responsive feel in the steering with less overall steering. Running less in-board toe (0 degree) will result in more stability with more overall steering."

Do I want more stablillity and more steering on my car?

Absolutely!

so i just put a rear suspension block(LOSA9848) on the front to square up the front end to make my car more 21st century car.

but that made my car's front end too narrow, I swapped wheel hex with pair of 0.255" (LOSA9688) to make 190mm front end.

front end feel lot more smoother, springier.

Diff height on Losi JRXS

Many people talking about how to tune chassis with that, but from the old days I always believe "straight shaft spin more efficiently"

I adjust my diff height so the CVD bones become parallel with the ground/setting board.

then forget about it~

I told My wife I'm going to order few parts

No Kit, No radio, nothing big...

Just few parts.

RCD Boot / shrink wrap

IMO Biggest advantage for the RCD over a CVD is you can shrink wrap those pins instead of set screw, it holds grease better, also less dust inside

maintainanace also become easy cause with right flexible shrink you can just peel that thing off and reuse them, Green planet!

Once my CVD wear out on my B4 I'll switch to B44's RCD and do the same

Truth about your shock oils

http://www.twf8.ws/php/tip/shock.html

Since I read that link I dumped all my Losi/trinity/ AE oils away and replaced them all with the Mugen, since then everytime I changed to higher/Lower CTS oil, shcok get harder/softer in amount as I expected, linear viscosity. very true

AE's WT game screwed us big time!

Losi once tried CTS for awhile in 90's (remember 275?350? Synthetic fluids?) but the racers been brain washed by the AE's pure silicone "WT" too long no one touched Losi's ...that made losi change back to WT in less than a year!

Associated you EVIL!

How to adjust sway bars

Lucar's car

This is mine

I try to take a picture like redrc's french driver's car but just can't do it! haha

from this rear view I want to point out its a important to have a sway bar holder (plastic piece) evenly screwed down, I think that s why Losi used cap head screw instead of button head, like every where else on this car (there is few spot losi used hex head for reasons, I bielive)

with that in mind I used wide aluminium washer instead of losi narrow washer to more evenly spread the screw's force.

also want to mention that sway bar should be 90 deg angled against the sway bars linkgae when it s on RH.

after installed the sway bars I did little tweaking by adjusting linkage length, this is how I done it

1. remove shocks, wheels, wheel nuts AND the SWAYBAR from the linkage.
2. make sure the sway bar is moving freely, that sway bar is free falling with it's own weight.
3. attached back the sway bars with linkages
4. stick a droop gauge under a hub carrier until opposite end start lifting, measure that
5. do same on other side to see compare the numbers
6. by adjusting length of linkage make that "Lifting point" even on both sides

Thats how I do it, which side to turn to make lift early? I never remeber that you will find out soon

XXX-S

Yes I'm also going to talk about the XXX-S in this blog

the car have a sealed tranny that makes perfect for a parking lot track or a track with lots of dust.

I ran this at SOCAL raceway (asphalt) back in 2001-2002 for a season then I brought it back to life with me on 360raceway which was carpet surface in 2008.

Car was workign well on asphalt with normal (3-4mm?) droop with soft springs @ SOCAL but once I learned new way to measure Droop (1-2mm drrop over RH) and little bits of stiffer springs, the HELL broke lose!

one of the X-Losi driver showed me how to droop correctly for the XXX-S, just like old offroad cars this car need to be droop with shock's own length! (inside shock limiters) cause this car have a droop screw on the bumpers (soft rubber like meterial) once you put little bit of pressure on it droop changes every seconds!!

once I start drooping with shock length car became much smoother or lets say the suspension working correctley, in other words..adjust a spring collar 1 or 2 turn makes difference on Riding height.

I have few detail like to share, I ll be back soon

bye for now

1st Day

I saw some post in the RCtech.net for some French driver name "Lucas Urbane" about his Losi touring doing good in European race, and wanted to created this blog for post and share some thoughts about this car called "Losi JRXS Type-R"

I got this car from friend of mine "Park" which you will hear lots from me soon and I did some mistake and also did some good work to it (IMO) the car's been running strong lately on asphalt.

for many logical reason this car is very well designed and constructed products so I may stick with this car for very long time as I did with my bath tub chassis RC10's

I will try to updated as often as I can.

note: if your looking for a "Front camber link" mod article its been moved to here